Today we fly out to Seattle, London and on to Rome. I was astonished by the shear number of people in Heathrow and the efficient manner that they were processed. Then we get to Rome. I had heard that Italian travel has its challenges and we found out right away. Huge long lines for everything-over an hour to just get through customs, that was a bummer. Big laughs, big gestures, loud passionate voices. I think I could like it here. I have to appreciate that there was signage in English, but we did have to look for it. We took the train part way into Rome and transferred to another train to the port of Civitevecchia. I talked to an Italian man going the same way and he helped get us to the correct platforms. I have always been self conscious trying to communicate with non-english speakers, but it seemed to work that day.
We arrive at our B&B which was on the 4th floor of one of the oldest buildings in town. Twelve foot ceilings with timbers that were gorgeous. Our room had vaulted plaster ceilings and fitted with the smallest shower this side of an RV.
April 18 Civitevecchia, Italy
We crashed last night but didn't sleep well. Jet lag, different bed/sounds so it was expected. In the morning, we walked two blocks to the old fort at the port entrance and walked the lovely boardwalk/ water front area. Interesting to watch old local retired guys playing cards - loudly :-) We then grabbed our bags and walked to the port entrance where buses took us to the departure gate. I stumbled over someones luggage. It didn't seem a big problem when I did it, but that story continues. Our room is small of course, like all ships, but we did get a balcony this time and the fresh air was welcome.
April 19 Naples
We went to Herculaneum! The arched openings were ocean front boat houses and from the number of bones here, this was where people tried to shelter. I am standing at the level of the top of the mud flow looking down and am miles from the ocean.
Being a rich seaside town, it was interesting to see the large villas with patios overlooking the ocean and the smaller homes up the hill. Some things don't change much.
April 20 At sea
Explored the ship, cooking demonstration, a nap, and a lovely formal dinner. We have choosed to eat with 2-4 others each night. Don can hear everyone and we can get to know the folks a bit with that number. The other passengers are mostly from USA, Canada, UK, and Australia. Some Dutch, German, New Zealand Indians and Chinese. Everyone we met who chose to share tables spoke English, so we are enjoying the time. Jet lag still a problem. There is a lovely quintet (2 violins, viola, cello and piano) that plays classical music in the evenings. I hope I didn't snore during the performance.... My clock still wants me to go to sleep at 9pm and wake at 4am.
April 21 Crete, Greece Jet lag takes the day. We explore the city but just don't have the energy to get excited. Too bad since visits to other places refer to the Minoan civilization here.
April 22 Santorini
I'm still up early and I wake Don as we sail past the lighthouse on the south.
The ship has great food. Don goes for the omelet station almost every day. In just a few days, the woman knows his order. I take turns between the eggs benedict station and buttermilk pancakes. Lots of fresh fruit, fresh squeezed juices and lovely pastries and sticky buns. We get a good breakfast every day before we head out.
The view from the water of the caldera is outstanding. The cliffs look like there is snow at the top but look closer and you see the white houses perched up there. We drop anchor and take a tender to the dock at old Fira. We have the option of riding a donkey or walking up the 687 steps to the top of the caldera rim to the main town. Even though it is early in the season, sharing a path with donkeys can be smelly and slippery. On our way to the cable car, we decide to take a boat instead to the dock below Oia town. It was lovely to cruise along the cliffs. We catch a bus from the Oia dock to the town at the top of the crater.
This is where many of the quintessential Santorini pictures are taken. White plaster homes with blue domed roofs and church bells. Narrow cobbled walkways and lots of charm.
We stop for wine, saganaki and wi-fi at a cliffside cafe. We could see all of the caldera, the island in the center and the far rim. Spectacular!
We catch another bus to upper Fira town and wander the narrow cobbled streets. Lots of interesting shops and stone buildings. Too many tourists!! But tourism is keeping Santorini alive and since there are jobs, the young people are not moving away like so many other Greek islands. We finally make it over to the Cable car and descend to the dock where we catch a tender back to the ship. We eat dinner that night as we sail past Oia and out to sea.
April 23 Kusadasi, Turkey
This day is the highlight of our trip. I booked a private tour with only 12 people and am so glad we did. We had a lovely young woman as our guide for the day. She was very knowledgable about the effects of Muslim, Christianity and Paganism in the region.
Our first stop was the Virgin Marys last home. There was an air of respect and reverence here that I did not feel anywhere else on our trip. We saw gifts from various Popes and the many wishes tied to the wishing wall.
Then on to Ephesus. We entered the political gate and saw the ruins of buildings and theaters where regional leaders would meet and conduct government business.
The level of sophistication of the buildings, water and sewer systems and culture was amazing.
The marble toilet room was interesting with the running water channel at your feet as well as under the seats. This was used as a gathering place - men only - and in the winter, the rich folks had slaves warm the marble by sitting there. Very sophisticated. And I had to get a picture of Nike with the swoosh in the skirt.
As we went on, we walked through the residential area. The streets are all paved with marble pavers that have been polished by millions of feet over the millenium. Not all of them are perfectly flat and there were many, many steps in and out of the ruins.
A section called the Terrace houses is newly opened to the public and has fabulous examples of brightly colored frescoes and mosaics but also hundreds of steps. They have built a roof over this section to retain the color and integrity. My foot was hurting, so we missed that section and rested.
Then on to the public section that included the library, markets and amphitheater.
We had a lovely lunch on the lawn of a regional school for village women. They are taught cooking, nutrition and how to make Turkish carpets. After learning those skills, they are given a loom and they return to their village where they can now make a living and support their families.
Sirince was an old Greek village that was abandoned almost 100 years ago when Turkey and Greece repatriated those from the other culture living in their country. It has since been repopulated by Turks but it has an interesting and sad history.
We also visited St Johns Basilica and the ruins of the Temple of Artimis. It was a very long satisfying day.
Big city. Hot. Dirty, Crowded. It was a challenge today. We got on a Hop-on Hop-off bus and did the circuit. Then walked some of the gardens and tried to find some things, but decided my foot is a real problem so went to the doctor. The x-rays were inconclusive but they put me in a boot and told me to not walk on it, ice it and keep it raised. Sigh.
April 25 Katakolon
Since we are coming back here on the next leg of the trip, I take the doctors advise and rest my foot. We did walk into town to get a lift for my other shoe since the height discrepancy with the boot is causing pain in my knee and hip. Just shoot me! And of course we stop for adult beverages in this semi outdoor cafe sandwiched between two ancient buildings.
April 26 Corfu
Beautiful town and Corfu beer is the best. The city has two old forts and a lovely old section with lovely shops and churches.
We got another Hop-on Hop-off bus so saw some of the burbs as well as some of the outlying ruins. As we stood at the top of a tall, old seawall by the old fort, we saw a car coming up the narrow road from below. It was starting, stopping, backing up and having a horrible time getting around a tight turn. Don figured out it was a new car with collision avoidance! Not a feature you want here with very narrow walled streets. He finally made it, but it was a chore.
April 27 Dubrovnick, Croatia
I love this town! It is just charming. The old walled city has massive walls, embattlements, towers and buildings. Did I say massive? Really massive?
The Game of Thrones is filmed here, so some of you may have seen some of the structures.
The architecture is beautifully restored on most buildings. You are allowed to walk the top of the wall, but we didn't because of my foot. There were still lots of steps inside and we spent hours walking the wide avenues, plazas, and narrow cobbled streets inside the old walls. Yes, this is a street with steps in the residential section.
Another walled city but not as big, smaller walls and much flatter than yesterday.
I loved walking the smaller streets. Look at the second and third floor access doors above the arch on the street.
Amazing.
I knew petroleum prices were high in Europe. That, and the narrow streets and lack of parking made it understandable that sub-compact cars were the norm.
April 29-30 Venice, Italy
Today I went out to listen to the color commentary and watch as we sail into Venice. The buildings are majestic. I can hardly wait to get into town. I want to explore there and there and there!
Sailing in was interesting since it is the only time any of our cruise ships have utilized a tug. Normally the azipods can be directed to move the ship in any direction. However, there is so much ship traffic and the channel is so narrow and winding that we have a tug tied to the bow of the ship to keep it pointed in the right direction.
We dock and catch the people mover from the port to Plaza Roma which is the hub for all transportation including, water buses, people mover, and trains to the mainland. We get an all day pass for the water buses and off we go. Our first stop is a basilica we saw coming in.
It was everything that I expected. Grand, geat architecture, beautiful arched and domed ceilings and marble floors. Don loved the golden hand hanging as a chandelier.
Then we go across the canal to Doges Palace at St Marks Square. Now this is over the top. Many of the rooms were court rooms and public spaces. All had beautiful art and architecture. The ceilings were incomparable.
I am in awe of the grandeur.
We see three rooms of ancient weapons and wander about.
It seems we have found the direct enrance from the courts to the prison.
Not many transportation requirements for prisoners back then.
Now we have low rock ceilings, cold stone cells, iron padlocks and an air of dispair.
We finally make it through the many levels and steps to the prison entrance and back to the light.
I was prepared to not expect much in Venice having heard it can be smelly, streets flooded and difficult to navigate. But although crowded, we did not experience any of that. It was a challenge for me to negotiate the bridges over all the canals since they are not ramps, but steps. A merchant standing outside of his shop looked at my boot and said "you are in the wrong city for that". Yup, I agree, but it was worth every step.
There are many things to see at St Marks square and we visited several museums there. We made a major timing error when we left on the water bus at 5:45.
The route took us up the Grand canal which is supposed to be a very scenic ride, taking you under the Rialto Bridge and past many beautiful sites. But just because I am on vacation, not every one is. A bad commute on water is probably worse than in a car since everything is rocking and you are shoulder to shoulder. We couldn't see a thing. Thank goodness we are spending two days here in Venice.
On our second day in Venice we go over to Murano. They have made glass there for centuries.
Most of Don's collection of Indian trade beads were made here in the 1800's
And of course, being a trade center for centuries it had a lighthouse that we checked out.
Then back on the water bus to take us back to Venice and then the ship. The ride is spectacular.
Everywhere you look it is a feast for the eyes. Art, architecture, history and all brought alive by charming, friendly people.
Leasure time.
Formal nights always have fabulous food. I chose escargot, caesar salad, lamb chops and a lovely dessert this time. Last formal night I had lobster. But every night there are always 4-6 choices and something always is to my taste. Fresh sushi is a choice for lunch most days until 2pm. We are not on the ship often for lunch, but I enjoyed it today.
We enjoy the sights as we sail past lighthouses and beautiful islands.
May 2 Corfu
(again)
We return to Corfu and since my foot is better, we walk the old fort and then along the seawall to old town and the new fort.
And again, Corfu makes the best beer.
This is a lovely Greek orthodox church. We were able to go inside and see the icons.
Lovely.
This is the Asian art museum .
Well darn. May 1st is a Greek holiday, but the government has indicated it will be observed May 3rd. All public parks etc are closed. So our planned trip to Olympia is dashed. OK, I will rest the foot.
May 4 Nafplion
We visit the ancient ruins of Mycenea. These ruins are eons older and it is interesting to see the different styles and evolution.
The museum was well done
After Mycenae,
we visited a beehive shaped underground tomb.
And then on to another fortress. They are all so different. I am not tired of them yet.
Fresh air and great views.
That is probably why I enjoy fortresses :-)
Our ship looks small from here but it can carry up to 1900 passengers. But evidently, amerians are afraid of traveling in the Mediterranean this year so there are just under 1600 on board.
What a wonderful day.
The Acropolis has so many buildings and structures on this limestone hill. We spent the whole day here.
This is the theater at the Acropolis about half way up the hill.
There are still many steps to climb.
We get to the top and it is fabulous.
The restoration has taken decades and will take many years more. But many blocks are numbered and ready to be placed
This was my favorite temple.
You can see here examples of the restored columns. Some of the original material is just not to be found and has been replaced.
Unlucky for me, the raw, exposed limestone at the top was polished by millions of feet and very hard for me to negotiate.
I was exhausted and not looking forward to the long walk down on uneven marble steps with no hand-rails. So my walking cast got us a ride down on the wheelchair lift. On the left is the pole it rides on and the right is the loading platform.
This is not a ride to take lightly. More like the Tower of Terror, but it worked and I was thankful for it.
I am told the next day is typical Greece. There was a transit strike for public buses and trains. OK, we will catch a Hop-on Hop-off bus.
But wait, the car traffic is horrendous. We finally get from the port to Athens but it is almost gridlock. We won't take the chance going to the other side of town (good choice) to the museum we wanted, so we get off at the Acropolis and walk to the Agora (market area). It was a nice walk with small interesting museums along the way. We find the HoHo bus stop but no bus. It finally comes but we go just a few blocks and there are streets blocked off and police everywhere because of the transit strike demonstrations. Oh, just get me out of here. The bus finally gives up on the route and we make it back to the ship.
May 7 Mykonos
I wake up, look out and see windmills, very old windmills. Ships historically brought grain here for grinding. We tender over to the dock just below them and start walking through a section called "Little Venice". There is no water, but the narrow, winding, cobbled streets are equaly confusing and charming :-). There are hotels, shops and homes. Delightful.
We want to go to the Maritime museum on what looks to be a bigger street on the map so we wander up the hill. It is early and the shopkeepers are out sweeping the cobbled paths. We are sharing the paths with tiny trucks, really tiny 3-4 wheel delivery vehicals. Many of these shops are very high-end. Prada, Louis Vuitton, Patek Phillipe, etc. Some have lovely handcrafted local things and of course, there are the required t-shirt shops.
We finally get to a regular street with cars and look for signs. Wow, we are way past the museum. So back down the path we go and find the museum on a slightly wider cobbled path. Yes, this is the "street". Four people wide! The museum is closed for an hour yet, so we walk over to the windmills.
We finally make it over to the Maritime museum and thoroughly enjoy the displays. Then we go to the back garden outside and Wow! a lantern house having a 1st order Fresnel lens with a unique signature of 5 short (5 bullseyes) and 6 steady (2 sections of continuous light).
I climb up and have to search for any damage. It is rare to see a lens like this that is so pristine. It was gorgeous and the breeze was refreshing. Even the mechanics to turn the light were beautifully maintained What a delight.
May 8 Kusadashi, Turkey (again)
Today we search for spices close to the ship. Tensions are a bit higher politically, so we use that as a sign to rest my foot a bit and not wander too far. We enjoy the shops and market area close to the ship.
May 9 Santorini, Greece (again)
Beautiful Santorini.
We tender to the Old Fira dock and take the cable car up the hill.
It is a good thing we like to wander since many of these places are very difficult to negoiate via maps.
The views continue to exhilarate.
We finally make it to the museum.
The displays are very nice but they were very weird about taking pictures. Huge urns and frescoes but we were not allowed to stand next to them to see scale.
I hope this lovely island can retain its charm and appeal with the masses of tourists coming every day.
May 10 at sea We continue to enjoy the String Quintet evenings and tonight is another formal night with steak and lobster, creme brule. Yum.
May 11 Naples, Italy (again)
Don is getting
homesick.
Better than saying he is cranky and should go home.
There were wonderful statues, and a place where you could see the bones and other items being dug up in the basement section.
The carvings were wonderful and less damaged than many places we saw.
.
May 12 Rome
After being disappointed by the city of Athens, I didn't expect to LOVE ROME.
But it is wonderful. We get off the ship early and share a ride into the city foregoing the train since we have only one day in here. We drop our bags at our hotel and head for adventure. The Hop-on Hop-off bus has a stop two blocks away and we make a circuit as we decide where we want to stop. Everywhere you look there are stately, old buildings. History is alive here.
Many Basilicas, each more beautiful than the other. Plazas, fountains and statues that share the glory of ages past. It was sad to see the large amount of armed security-police at the historical sites. These security horsemen were friendly but most armed sentries at the basilicas were taking their jobs very seriously. Basilicas need a dozen or more armed guards just out front? Really? What has this world come to?
It was a long flight, but the plane was not crowded going to Chicago and I could stretch by putting my big boot in the next footwell. The Max line had construction downtown, so Michael picked us up at almost midnight from the airport and we were wisked home in style.